SIHH 2022 Trend Report: Handsome salmon pink dials make a comeback
Salmon-coloured dials were a relatively mutual feature on wristwatches from the 1940s to the 1970s, with major manufacturers like Longines, Omega, Rolex and Tudor producing variants. Merely equally the decades went by, their popularity waned. By the 2000s, salmon dials were almost exclusively the preserve of Patek Philippe, and fifty-fifty then, only its special society pieces. Musician Eric Clapton is known to have several custom pieces from Patek with salmon dials.
Salmon dials witnessed a revival as early equally last year, with Montblanc issuing the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Express Edition Statuary and Patek itself unveiling its Reference 5270P Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, both with salmon dials. Later in the year, influential scout publications Hodinkee and Revolution teamed up with watchmakers Gronefeld and Chopard respectively to release limited edition watches – the Gronefeld 1941 Remontoire and Chopard L.U.C 1860 – with salmon dials.
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Judging by the five models with salmon dials that were recently launched at the SIHH, we tin can await this trend to continue well into 2022 and possibly beyond.
A. LANGE & SOHNE
DATOGRAPH PERPETUAL TOURBILLON
Three years ago, A. Lange & Sohne gave us the first edition of the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, cased in platinum and featuring a blackness punch. It came in a express run of 100 pieces. What nosotros take this year is substantially the same watch with the same tech specs, albeit in a gorgeous new guise: A white gilt case that frames and offsets a solid pinkish gold dial.
The hue was the subject of much attention – both positive and negative – at the SIHH, with detractors scoffing at Lange's determination to adopt this unusual color on the dial (it's a first for the German make). However, the punch also received a favourable response from those who felt that the hue lent the timepiece a singled-out, warm quality.
Either way, the watch'due south technical prowess is undeniable. Powered past Lange'south own Calibre L952.2, it boasts three functions in one: Datograph, perpetual calendar and tourbillon. The datograph is a flyback chronograph, which means you can reset the chronograph instantly without needing to stop information technology first. The 'dato' refers to Lange's signature outsized appointment display at 12 o'clock.
The perpetual agenda offers readouts of solar day of the week, month, spring year, day/night indication and moon phases. All these can be advanced with a unmarried push button of the button at 10 o'clock. Finally, the tourbillon (visible through the sapphire case back) comes with a patented finish seconds mechanism. This allows you to pull out the crown and set the time precisely and without damaging the sensitive regulating organs.
AUDEMARS PIGUET
Royal OAK "Colossal" EXTRA-THIN
Audemars Piguet's Imperial Oak "Colossal" Actress-Thin is hewn from white aureate. Look. What? An A-list watch manufacturer unveiling a lookout man crafted from white gilt shouldn't elicit shock, just consider two things: First, how the original Royal Oak disrupted the industry in 1972 with its stainless steel case and bracelet; and 2d, how Audemars Piguet has just always used white gold on a Royal Oak once before, in the 1980s. That watch had a blueish punch and diamond-set hour markers.
On this 39mm model, there's the pink gold-toned "Petite Tapisserie" dial, which also appeared simply in one case before, on a Purple Oak 20th anniversary edition. The unusual combination of satin-brushed white gold example and bracelet plus pink gold-toned dial should therefore pique the involvement of many a collector.
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MONTBLANC
HERITAGE Automated
Montblanc released non one, only iii models with rosy dials at the SIHH, possibly spurred by the positive reception towards last year'due south 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition Bronze. The three novelties all hail from the new Heritage drove, which is inspired by Minerva wristwatches of the 1940s and 1950s. Montblanc currently owns the Minerva manufacture, which was famous for producing ultra-precise stopwatches.
The first model, the Heritage Automatic, was an entry-level piece powered by an automatic motility. Cased in stainless steel, information technology sported a pale salmon-toned dial. Adding a squeamish touch on was the contrast between the textured outer dial and sunray brushed centre.
A railway infinitesimal rails completed the vintage aesthetic, while applied numerals and hour indices imparted a classy, upmarket feel. Montblanc offered a choice of smoky grey alligator straps from its leather workshops in Florence, or a steel mesh Milanese bracelet. We recommend the latter if you want the total vintage look.
MONTBLANC
HERITAGE GMT
Sporting the aforementioned case dimensions (40mm) and vintage artful every bit the Heritage Automatic model to a higher place, Montblanc'southward Heritage GMT boasts a useful complication: A 2d time zone. This function is indicated by a blue pointer-tipped hand and 24-hour chapter ring on the punch, also shaded in blue. (We wonder, though, if the watch might take looked ameliorate with blood-red indications instead). In any example, the watch's movement consists of an automatic calibre topped by a GMT module. A smoky greyness alligator strap completes the offer.
MONTBLANC
HERITAGE PULSOGRAPH Express EDITION 100
Completing Montblanc's trifecta of salmon-dialled variants is the piece de resistance, the Heritage Pulsograph Express Edition 100. A monopusher chronograph, the watch relies on the single push-button at 2 o'clock to start, stop and reset the chronograph.
Its ii-counter dial pattern is a throwback to old Minerva chronographs. Features like the 30-second graduated indications on the outer dial – one time used past doctors to measure patients' pulse rates – and the international payphone indications of 3, 6 and 9 minutes on the chronograph'southward minute counter besides add to the watch'south vintage appeal.
Flipping the lookout around reveals a sapphire case dorsum, through which the in-business firm manufactured calibre tin can be admired. Gaze upon the column-bike construction (a sign of high-end chronographs); the iconic V-shaped span, a Minerva characteristic since 1912; the Minerva arrow, some other distinctive feature; and the big balance wheel that beats at a leisurely pace of 2.5Hz (contemporary watches typically operate at 4Hz).
As its name suggests, the watch is limited to 100 pieces.
Source: https://cnalifestyle.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/5-handsome-watches-with-salmon-pink-dials-from-sihh-2019-238976
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